When Bob and Marjorie Leventry moved to Chicago in 1996 after three years in Ecuador with the Peace Corps, their work with the Ecuadorians wasn't finished. Bob, a business executive, and Marjorie, a dietician, started Inca Organics, an import company, and launched the Heirloom Quinoa Project, which won the Slow Food Award in the Defense of Biodiver­sity in 2002.

In Ecuador Marjorie had heard that the grain quinoa was a complete protein, but she was skeptical. Testing results, however, made her a believer. Although the grain quinoa (KEEN-wa) was a staple of the ancient Incas, who had little or no meat in their diet, it fell out of favor. "The Spaniards felt the Incas were getting their power from quinoa and told them it was a dirty food, so the indigenous people stopped eating it," explains Marjorie. But some descendants of the ancient Incas continued growing heirloom quinoa high in the Andes Mountains.

Inca Organics imports the quinoa of farmers trained to grow it organically by an indigenous radio station. The Leventry's project has helped raise the standard of living of the farmers and given them a newfound pride in their heritage.

Since the growers keep one third of their har­vest, quinoa is becoming a regular part of their diet, resulting in a decrease in  child malnutrition from 74% to about 24%.

"Quinoa is an excellent source of pro­tein for vegetarians and can be tolerated by people who are sensitive to gluten, wheat and soy," explains Marjorie. "And our heirloom quinoa is just washed, not polished, so it gives a better flavored product that can be used in pilafs and salads." Sarah Stegner, chef of the Din­ing Room at the Ritz-Carlton Chicago, uses it in a salad of mixed grains. Steg­ner says, "It has a nutty, toasted flavor that I like, and it's got great texture." And according to Marjorie, "One restaurant chef in Quito is even doing some Nuevo Latino recipes with quinoa"-hinting at its versatility as more of us begin to dis­cover this under-appreciated grain.

- Nancy Maes

Inca Organics, 866.328.4622; www.incaorganics.com

Inca Organics Quinoa is available at Sherwyn's, 645 W. Diversey, Chicago; 773.477.1934 and Whole Foods Markets. Bob's Red Mill Flour made from Inca Organics Quinoa is also available at Whole Foods Markets.